After the Costa Smeralda, Isola di Tavolara was next. Yes, as indicated by the name, it is a table-like mountain of impressive height with white cliffs everywhere. It also lies in a marine reserve and the anchorage we were planning on using was in zone B: mooring only permitted on mooring buoys laid out by the authorities. So we were a bit anxious to get there to make sure we got one of those precious moorings. Well, this is Italy and we found about 20 yachts anchored right off the beach - clearly prohibited by the park regulations - and no official moorings in sight! So we anchored right next to a 30 m (!!!!) aluminium catamaran from Switzerland.

It is difficult to plan a trip like the one we’re doing this year and ensuring we see all the sights. Luckily, we always have other people on board who make sure of that! The Koewings and Overkaempings are methodical, operate from the strength of several different (German) guidebooks and are constantly at work. Yes, there is the Grotto delle Bue Marine which I had not planned to visit because it was not appropriately highlighted in my Italian Waters Pilot by the Heikells. (There was an oblique reference that the area is “one of the wildest and most rugged parts of Sardinia” which I had not picked up on!) Well, I’m glad we went. The grotto itself is impressive although the Bue Marine, after which the grotto was named, is now extinct due to mainly human activity. But the scenery of the Golfo de Orosei is phantastic, with very high and steep mountains coming right to the sea. We got to anchor right in front of the grotto in turquoise water and explore the surrounding areas by dinghy and paddle board.

The last stop on Sardinia was Santa Maria Navarrese, a sleepy little town with a modern marina. Back to the mainland next!