Amorgos & Naxos

After the Mykonos experience, I’m now taking anchor bearings when it’s windy. It may seem old fashioned, but it saves electricity and it works. Island 32 was Denoussa, 20 miles South of Mykonos and the Meltimi was again howling when we got to Ormos Roussa on Denoussa, which was otherwise a delightful spot. But anchor bearings it was. The anchor was set.

Island 33 was a highlight. Amorgos has almost everything. Amazing scenery, beautiful towns, great hiking and historical places. What it doesn’t have is a well protected harbor when the Meltimi is blowing. But we anchored in Katapola bay in the lee of the mountains opposite the port which did the trick. We had a great excursion by bus to the Chora up the hill, and the monastery with the unspeakable name - Hozoviotissa. The monastery is hanging off a vertical cliff and is reachable only by a 30 minute strenuous walk up a steep rocky path but it’s definitely worth it! The monks served a nice Schnaps but I had to find a shop in the Chora to buy a bottle for Kincsem’s strange liquor collection. That collection is every growing but consumption is high so it’s important to restock from time to time.

After Amorgos came Mirini on Schoinoussa, which we reached after a spirited sail. Schoinoussa is part of the “Small Cyclades,” a collection of sleepy little islands with few tourists. They have their own ferry line - the “Small Cyclades” line. When we arrived in Mirini we found the harbor very tight to anchor but since there were no other boats at the dock, we went stern-to. At sundown, the little dock was packed and there were several boats anchored in the tight space left. But all was good.

A great upwind sail in moderate Northerlies brought us to Naxos, island 35 - and here we had a real marina (of sorts), with electricity and (very bad) water. I have a little water tester on Kincsem which tested way above the EPA’s limit for solids (dirt) in the water but no problem - we just use the water maker to fill the tanks. Naxos was also the island where the Brunners departed and the Admiral and Rainer and Almut came on board. Rainer and Almut had been on the island for a week before coming on board so they had great recommendations for a place for dinner and a place to take an after-dinner Absacker.


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