The sail to Salina was as we've come to expect, upwind most of the way. But we don't mind if the breeze can be called such, which it could. We anchored just South of the harbor of Santa Maria Salina where there is a nice little plateau of 5 m depth and plenty of room to swing to anchor. And swing we did as we were just below and to leeward of a very high cliff, so the winds were from everywhere. Salina is a nice little town, considerably less developed than Lipari for example, but still, mostly touristy shops everywhere. But Rieke discovered a nice little restaurant ....

On the beach promenade of Santa Maria Salina

The morning of April 30 brought us a forecast that the nice Northwesterly would continue for the day but then give way to very light conditions. Given a planned arrival in Palermo of May 2 we had to get going, so made a course for Sant' Agata de Militello on Sicily's North Coast, some 35 miles away. We almost made it there on a dying breeze but when we entered the harbor, the docks described in the handbook were gone and there was construction everywhere. Soon we were hailed by someone (the Guardia Costera) on Channel 16 that the "barca inglese" better leave. No, you can't anchor in the harbor. No big loss given the bleak surroundings. So off we went 10 miles East to Capo D'Orlando marina, the only harbor we could reach before dark. That turned out to be a big surprise - best marina in all of Italy that I've been to. Everything clean, modern, and in working condition. No closed stores - two good restaurants right there, underground parking!

The only surprise was that the next morning, when we were about to leave, two nice officers from the Guardia Costera showed up and wanted to see our "Constituto". The What?? No idea. We explained how we had entered Italy in Rapallo, an official port of entry, and how the harbor master had handled all entry formalities for us. And when we asked whether we were getting some piece of paper, he said no, not necessary, all "electronico"! Well, after much arguing among the officers and their superiors, a detailed handwritten declaration of mine of Kincsem's whereabouts since entering Italy in October 2018, and much help from Google translate, signatures, stamps, and scribbles, but no transfer of Euros, two hours later I was in possession of a Constituto! I was admonished that in every harbor I had to get the Constituto stamped, sealed and delivered. Va bene!

That night we anchored in the harbor of Cefalu, but anchoring doesn't count as being "in harbor", so no stamps in the Constituto!

At anchor in Cefalu

Best restaurant of the trip

Kincsem at anchor but there is another Amel 55 at the dock - Russians

Cefalu is a fabulous little town set underneath a humungous rock, with a very impressive cathedral and some picturesque stretches of buildings from the Middle Ages right on the beach. Only problem: it smells bad in several places, even in 18C temperatures. You don't want to be here in the summer.

Exploring Cefalu

The cathedral of Cefalu

Interesting window panes

This is the postcard view of Cefalu

This is the view leaving the harbor

Course Palermo

So now we're in Palermo where Kincsem will be for a few days of rest, the receipt of packages, cleaning and general R&R. We're next to a Super Maramu called Gros Doux - the fat sweet one. The owner is a Hungarian with a long pony tail and he's with two women, one with light blue hair and a younger one with a head full of "decorations." They have potted plants on deck, some suspicious. That's all I know - they left for Hungary the morning after our arrival. But they asked about Kincsem, which was a famous Hungarian race horse.

So how about the Constituto? I tried to get it stamped today but the Guardia Costera wasn't interested when they heard that it hadn't been stamped in Reggio or Catania. Why should they work if their colleagues didn't work?