We just arrived here from the island of Favignana. It was supposed to be a quick, spirited sail in 20 knots plus but the wind struggled to stay with us and it was downwind - things can be easy! Favignana is one of the Egadian islands and it wasn’t anything to write home about. Run down buildings that are recent vintage aren’t charming by any stretch of imagination. Neither are the large empty tuna factories at the harbor. We wanted to anchor but decided to go into the harbor instead because the wind was to turn during the night and stand straight into the anchorage at 20 knots plus. And it did, so correct decision.

The Egadian islands are one giant marine reserve and most every bay that is attractive is supposed to have mooring buoys in it so the anchors don’t tear up the precious Posidonia grass. But the Sicilians don’t lay out the buoys until sometime in July apparently so one isn’t supposed to go into any of those nice places at all at this time of the year. Even if one decided to do it anyway, it’s likely not a good idea because of the likelihood of hooking the massive mooring chains on the bottom.

Generally, there are few places to anchor on the North Coast of Sicily. In the winds we’ve had, the few anchorages that there are were exposed to swell or wind so in the last week, we have to go to a “marina” in most every place at unreasonable prices. “Marina” suggests something distinctly more than reality here in Northern Sicily. Usually, there’s a floating dock that is at (or beyond) the end of its service life and poor shelter with the wind standing into the “marina” from at least one direction. There’s some electricity and sometimes, there is “fresh” (often non-potable) water. In Favignana there was no electricity but they ran a noisy, old generator right next to the dock for a few hours in the evening. No other facilities and cash only of course because the guy pays no taxes. In Castellammare del Golfo, our first stop after Palermo, there was a single restroom but the toilet seat was dirty and standing next to the toilet in the corner. In every harbor there are several “marinas” - so if you’re organized, you can call them or email them ahead of time and negotiate the price.

Castellammare del Golfo is a somewhat touristy place in a phantastic location underneath steep mountainsides, which looks quaint if the sun is shining. Luckily, it was when we were there and we spent a lovely day doing nothing much than exploring the town on foot.

Entering Castellammare del Golfo - the castello from the Middle Ages on the left

Kalle kitted out in rubber gloves (to handle the dirty mooring lines) and headset for good communications with the skipper

Main street

Fish is being sold right on the docks

Restaurant Row - the best looking building is the Guardia Costiera building

Whenever we passed the first three restaurants next to the boat (you can see the last one on the right), someone came out to offer a discount on lunch or dinner - that was adding up in a hurry….. but we didn’t go there to eat.

Getting my constituto stamped by the Guardia Costiera in CdG was a bit involved. Why? Because the bozos in Palermo had refused to stamp it!! So long discussions in Italian ensued, the local police chief had to drive down to the Guardia Costiera building from uptown to inspect the offending foreigner (me) personally and numerous phone calls had to be carried out. My passport was a matter of special interest since it does not have an Italian entry stamp (I often use my German passport to enter Europe and European passports don’t get stamped). After more than an hour of heated debate, I got lucky: they did not hand cuff me and gave me my stamp!

Leaving Castellammare del Golfo

Next was San Vito lo Capo. The guide book spoke of African flair, white houses and all. The reality was a little different.

At anchor in front of the beach in San Vito lo Capo

A lovely location underneath a massive rock, turquoise waters, but ashore nothing but restaurants and gift shops and many run down buildings and trash lying around at the port. Ironically, the “marina” made Kalle separate the trash bag he went ashore to dump into four different bins - and would not take no for an answer. I guess they decided to start cleaning up by making their customers do it!

Restaurant row in San Vito lo Capo

In the “marina” at SVlC - we almost hit bottom 2 meters from the dock and the harbor is totally open to the South East - so the plastic docks were loudly banging for much of night when 20 knots from the South East set in

The sail to Favignana was upwind - again. But our tactics were great, Kalle generally helmed well and we arrived way ahead of time. Before entering harbor, I had noticed that the ferries going in and out were taking a big swing into shore before entering harbor and I noticed two wooden boats anchored with a large wooden “X”. When we got closer it became clear what was happening: a 1 mile long tuna net floating just to the West of the harbor entrance! We had to take a big detour to the East into shore to get into the harbor. First time I’ve seen a tuna net in three years in the Med.

Home cooking in Favignana harbor - the versatile captain at work!